The Revival of Carignan: From Obscurity to Stardom

Carignan, once dismissed as a workhorse grape for producing bulk wines, is experiencing a renaissance in the world of fine wine. Long overshadowed by more glamorous varieties like Syrah and Grenache, Carignan is now being rediscovered by winemakers and enthusiasts alike for its ability to produce wines of depth, complexity, and unique character when treated with care. This article explores Carignan’s history, its challenges and strengths, and the reasons behind its modern revival.

 

 

The Origins and History of Carignan

Carignan (known as Cariñena in Spain and Carignano in Italy) is a red grape variety with a long Mediterranean history. It likely originated in Aragon, Spain, where it is still grown today, before spreading to France, Italy, North Africa, and beyond.

• A Staple of Bulk Wine: In the mid-20th century, Carignan became one of the most planted varieties in the world, particularly in southern France and North Africa. Its high yields made it ideal for producing large quantities of wine, though often at the expense of quality.

• Decline in Popularity: By the late 20th century, Carignan had fallen out of favor. Its tendency to produce overly tannic, acidic, and rustic wines—especially when overcropped—led many winemakers to replace it with more fashionable, easier-to-cultivate varieties like Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Despite this decline, Carignan survived in pockets of old vineyards, particularly in the Mediterranean regions of France and Spain, where it was planted on poor soils and tended by those who saw its potential for greatness.

 

Characteristics of Carignan

Carignan is a grape that thrives in hot, dry climates and has unique qualities that make it both a challenge and an opportunity for winemakers.

Strengths

• Resilience to Heat and Drought: This makes it well-suited to Mediterranean regions and increasingly valuable in the face of climate change.

• Old Vines: Many surviving Carignan vines are over 50 or even 100 years old, producing low yields of concentrated, flavorful grapes.

• Distinctive Aromatics: Properly managed, Carignan offers a unique flavor profile that sets it apart from more common varieties.

Challenges

• High Acidity and Tannins: These traits can result in harsh wines if not carefully vinified.

• Late Ripening: It requires a long growing season to achieve full ripeness, which limits where it can be grown successfully.

• High Yields: Carignan is naturally productive, and its quality suffers if yields are not strictly controlled.

Aromas and Flavors

When handled with care, Carignan produces wines with a compelling bouquet of red and black fruits (cranberry, black cherry), spices (pepper, licorice), and earthy or herbal notes (garrigue, dried herbs). With age, it can develop complex tertiary aromas of leather, prune, and forest floor.

 

The Factors Driving Carignan’s Revival

1. Focus on Old Vines

Many of the remaining Carignan vineyards are planted with old, gnarly vines, often in poor soils that naturally limit yields. These vines produce grapes with remarkable intensity and complexity, giving rise to high-quality wines that showcase the true potential of the variety.

2. Modern Winemaking Techniques

Advances in winemaking have allowed producers to tame Carignan’s natural tannins and acidity. Techniques like maceration carbonique (carbonic maceration) are used to create fresher, fruitier styles, while careful oak aging brings out depth and balance.

3. Climate Change

As global temperatures rise, Carignan’s resilience to heat and drought is becoming a valuable asset. Regions seeking heat-resistant varieties are reconsidering this once-overlooked grape.

4. Demand for Authentic, Regional Varieties

In an age when wine drinkers are seeking authenticity and diversity, Carignan offers a sense of place and history. Its Mediterranean roots make it a natural choice for those exploring the wines of the Rhône, Languedoc, or Priorat.

 

Carignan’s Modern Renaissance Regions

France: The Languedoc and Roussillon

In southern France, Carignan has historically been a cornerstone of blends in appellations like Corbières, Minervois, and Fitou. Today, winemakers are producing exceptional single-varietal Carignan wines from old vines, showcasing its unique character. The schist and limestone soils of these regions lend minerality and structure to the wines.

 

Spain: Priorat and Montsant

In its homeland, Carignan (Cariñena) thrives in the rugged, slate soils of Priorat and neighboring Montsant. Often blended with Garnacha (Grenache), it produces powerful, structured wines with remarkable aging potential.

 

Italy: Sardinia

Known as Carignano in Sardinia, this variety shines in the Carignano del Sulcis DOC, where it delivers round, fruit-forward wines with Mediterranean herbal notes.

 

New World Regions

Carignan is also gaining attention in the New World.

• California: Old-vine Carignan in Sonoma and Mendocino Counties has become a darling of boutique producers, creating wines that are vibrant, fresh, and full of character.

• Chile: In the Maule Valley, Carignan has found a home in ancient vineyards planted on dry-farmed hillsides. The VIGNO (Vignadores de Carignan) association highlights the potential of these wines.

 

Styles and Food Pairings

Carignan’s versatility allows it to be made in a variety of styles, from fresh and fruit-driven to bold and age-worthy.

Food Pairings

• Rustic Mediterranean Dishes: Ratatouille, lamb stew, or grilled sausages.

• Barbecue: Its smoky, spicy notes complement chargrilled meats.

• Cheese: Pairs beautifully with aged cheeses like Manchego or Gruyère.

• Vegetarian Options: Think roasted eggplant, mushroom-based dishes, or lentil stews.

 

Producers to Explore

• France: Domaine Gauby (Côtes Catalanes), Domaine Léon Barral (Faugères), Mas Combarèla (Terrasses du Larzac).

• Spain: Scala Dei (Priorat), Álvaro Palacios (Priorat), Mas Martinet (Priorat).

• Italy: Santadi (Carignano del Sulcis).

• California: Broc Cellars, Ridge Vineyards, Birichino.

• Chile: Garage Wine Co., De Martino, Undurraga.

 

Conclusion: A Grape Reborn

Carignan’s revival is a testament to the enduring value of overlooked grape varieties. With its Mediterranean heritage, resilience to heat, and ability to express terroir, Carignan is a symbol of the wine world’s renewed focus on authenticity and sustainability.

No longer just a workhorse, Carignan has proven its ability to produce wines that are vibrant, complex, and deeply connected to their origins. For wine lovers seeking something unique, the resurgence of Carignan offers a chance to rediscover a grape with centuries of history and a bright future ahead.